Nonlinear long-wave deformation and runup in a basin of varying depth
Item
Title (Dublin Core)
Nonlinear long-wave deformation and runup in a basin of varying depth
Description (Dublin Core)
Nonlinear transformation and runup of long waves of finite amplitude in a basin of variable depth is analyzed in the framework of 1-D nonlinear shallow-water theory. The basin depth is slowly varied far offshore and joins a plane beach near the shore. A small-amplitude linear sinusoidal incident wave is assumed. The wave dynamics far offshore can be described with the use of asymptotic methods based on two parameters: bottom slope and wave amplitude. An analytical solution allows the calculation of increasing wave height, steepness and spectral amplitudes during wave propagation from the initial wave characteristics and bottom profile. Three special types of bottom profile (beach of constant slope, and convex and concave beach profiles) are considered in detail within this approach. The wave runup on a plane beach is described in the framework of the Carrier-Greenspan approach with initial data, which come from wave deformation in a basin of slowly varying depth. The dependence of the maximum runup height and the condition of a wave breaking are analyzed in relation to wave parameters in deep water.
Creator (Dublin Core)
I. Didenkulova
Subject (Dublin Core)
Science
Q
Physics
QC1-999
Geophysics. Cosmic physics
QC801-809
Publisher (Dublin Core)
Copernicus Publications
Date (Dublin Core)
2009-01-01T00:00:00Z
Type (Dublin Core)
article
Identifier (Dublin Core)
1023-5809
1607-7946
https://doaj.org/article/99c7b78f404a4a488dfcc77c1c477b89
Source (Dublin Core)
Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics, Vol 16, Iss 1, Pp 23-32 (2009)
Language (Dublin Core)
EN
Relation (Dublin Core)
http://www.nonlin-processes-geophys.net/16/23/2009/npg-16-23-2009.pdf
https://doaj.org/toc/1023-5809
https://doaj.org/toc/1607-7946
Provenance (Dublin Core)
Journal Licence: CC BY